Visiting Rampur - a changed town

I love to drone our pahari traditional dress, kurta-sutan and saluka, (kurta-a long shirt, sutan-pyjama, saluka-sleevless jacket) for either local/family functions at Kotgarh or for a visit to Rampur for shopping trips. Rampur has one of the best markets in Shimla hills with almost everything under the sun available at very reasonable prices. A trip to Rampur is inevitable after every quarter as things need to be replinshed at home.


The traditional kurta-sutan is ideal for the hot weather at Rampur where the temprature hoovers above 30 degrees. The dress makes going around the shops and bargaining a lot comfortable in the heat. This time I visited Rampur after almost a year. Dressed in my best pahari attire, I was into some shock. I was among the very few dressed in the traditionals. Almost everyone was in the shirt trouser mode. I earlier felt comfortable mingling in the crowds wearing the traditionals. By way of dressing, it is difficult to guess from which area the person belongs to. But a simple hello can tell easily by the dialect whether one is from Seraj or from Rampur tehsil or from Kotgarh. It was as if I had landed at some alien place. The regular shopkeepers did greet me with warmth and enquired about my long absence. Mercifully, it was a hot cup of tea which was offered as I was dreading that the hospitality norms would have also changed and I may be offered Coke or Pepsi.

Rampur is a mix of tradition and now emerging into the world of modernity. Best deals you can get for grocery shopping is at the Ram Krishan Jeeva Ram. Another old hand Nandi, who used to sell grocery sitting on a mat has started a new modern selfservice super store with a dash of mall experience thrown in. The old shop is still there which suited me perfect. An old friend who had started an internet cafe have now converted his place into a snack-bar joint offering pizza, burger, momo and thupkas. Just went in to say hello and was treated with some rap music blaring across. Missed the old calm of the only internet cafe in Rampur.

Jugal Kishore Santosh Kumar, the oldest cloth merchants have changed the interiors and instead of cloth shop it is an emporium now. The shop is full of readymade garments for all age and seasons. A small portion of the store still have the cloth section but the choice is few and limited. For ages, this shop was the favorite to buy cloth for the family. Remembring old days, Grand dad during winters used to buy cloth for the family and it would be transported back home by the Gurkhas as the nearest bus stop was 11 km away then. The tailor used to be engaged for a month stitching these clothes. Now this man was a store house of all the gossip around the village. The month would pass with so much gossip getting circulated around. Bought my first gift to my then sweatheart and now throned wife at this shop. What memories!

Coming back, ATMs drone the market area. You have the SBI and PNB ATMs on the NH just opposite to each other. HDFC Bank has a full branch operating in Rampur. So no more money worries. Rampur is full of motor repair shops and vehicles of all kind can be repaired. Mahindra has a full fledged showroom and Maruti has two authorised service centres. Rampur has decent restaurants and hotels but I prefer the HPTDC Satluj cafe for its view. The food is nothing great to write about and the service sloppy. Old timers used to crave for the sweets of Thissu Halwai but since the old man is no more, the sons have taken the easier way out and sell the packed Lovely sweets from Jullandhar. Not worth even a visit. Rampur is well connected by HRTC network. Direct buses ply as far as to Haridwar, Delhi, Jammu, Chandigarh, Ambala Cantt. Dharamsala, Chintpurni and Manali via the Jallori Pass. Haryana Roadways also plies it buses from Delhi and Ambala.

Returning back home, I was not sure whether to be happy with all the ‘progress’ made by this small town. Anything which let us shed our traditions, I do not agree with such progress. Or I think, I am just another sentimental fool who was wishing to find the same town I had visited a year back. Life had certainly moved in this one year!

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I have been to Rampur, not one but two years ago.

For me, it was quite a surprise to see mostly people in traditional outfits and well, that was luring enough for me. I believe when we go to new places we always wanna see different culture, different outfits and such are the memories of the place that you carry back.

Absolutely Neha. The hinterlands of Himachal have been pockets of our traditions. It pains and surprises seeing people moving away from the traditions. How do you explain this phenomenon?

I studied in christain school in KOTGARH year 1931 to 1933\then in PADAM HIGH SCOOL RAMPUR frm where i passed matriculation exam in year 1935
I am 88 year old now and am living in USA since 1978.
i have property in DELHi and i come to INDIA off and on.
i visited KOTGARH AND RAMPUR nearly 8 years back
I remember LAVI fair in Rampur
NOW good hotels in different places like NARKUNDA SARAHAN RAMPUR etc
Very anxious to pay another visit to this area
jca

@ Dr. JC Aggarwal

Nice to read about your Kotgarh and Rampur connection. The Christian school is still there and is known as the Gorton Mission School. The Lavi fair starts from November 12 though has lost it’s sheen with time. New hotels have come up at Narkanda and Thanedhar, since you last visited though approach road from Shimla to Narkanda is in pretty bad shape these days.

Do drop in a line in case you pass through these neck of woods!